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Recommended sharpening jig & stone?

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Barwick	Recommended sharpening jig & stone?	Lead	[-]
Posts: 284 (04/12/06 7:56 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Tags : None Does anyone really know the "ideal" you're looking for in a sharpening jig and stone? I was looking at picking up a maple jig, but compared to the Silver Edge frame I've used before, it looks like it's not nearly as sturdy, but I may be wrong. I'm really looking for something that'll get my stuff sharpened, but last me (and keep my blades around) a year or two before I can get a really nice setup. And with a stone, I've heard that if you have a continuous diamond stone, you don't need to worry about it grooving really at all, so you don't have to go diagonal (like some people recommend to prevent grooving of the stone). Is this true, and is it good to do?
Sue Ellis	Re: Recommended sharpening jig & stone?	#1	[-]
Posts: 450 (04/17/06 1:08 PM) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	A diamond stone is definitely better in my opinion because there is no danger of grooving, but it will wear out as the diamonds get worn down. I still use diagonal strokes even with the diamond to get an initial burr (just bc it is a little faster) but straighten the lines out before polishing. There are three grits of diamond stone you can get. The black is the roughest but also takes more blade off and it is easier to unintentionally change the rocker using it. I try to reserve the black for really tough jobs or rerockering. The blue is a medium grit and a good allround sharpening stone. You still need to polish with a finer stone after using it. The yellow is a fine diamond, but still needs a finer polishing stone after using it and takes longer on the initial burring. I wouldn't recommend it as your sole sharpening stone. Norton, or other stones are great when they are new, but as they get worn need to be eighter reground to level or replaced. I can't tell you how many people come to me with problems either getting a burr in one spot on the blade or keeping an edge. A lot of times it is because of grooves in the stone causing a rounded edge rather than a 90 degrees edge. Sometimes it is caused by tilting the bruur stone to get the burr off. I even read on one web site where it recommends to put a peice of tape on half the burr stone to tilt it. I wouldn't recommend this as you don't get a 90 d edge. A lot of people are using the 3 sided aluminum/ paper polishers. They are OK when brand new, but as the aluminum gets nicked you can run in to problems with the nicks hitting the blades and causing problems. If you want a really fine polish, just put one piece of newspaper under the fine side of the stone and polish using straight strokes. Works great! I used to use a razor for deburring but found it was too easy to gouge the blade so have returned to my trusty fine red little Norton. Don't care for carbides as they can have the same result as razors if you aren't careful and don't like the feel of diamond deburrers. Jigs: I haven't really looked at what's out there for jigs these days. Can anybody else take a shot at this?
anaonbd	Re: Recommended sharpening jig & stone?	#2	[-]
Posts: 146 (04/18/06 9:23 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	wow, those are some things that I didn't know about stones and ways of sharpening.. Cheers Sue! I've used umm 3 Jigs; the first is the Silver Edge (I own it) and it's a good jig. Kind of heavy bug sharpens well. 2nd one is the Ultimate Edge (upgrade of the Silver Edge) and has quick releases on the sides where the SE has regular turning ones. It also has top stops which are a bit difficult to use for the first through 10th time you use it. 3rd is the Maple Gold jig, this one is a nice and easy to operate and quite light one ( one reason why so many skaters have it) that is easy to put theblades in, has a quick top stop design to it. I haven't heard many complaints on it either. The 4th (I know I said only 3) is one that I've seen being used but never used (yet hoping to get one) which is the Bont (black or black/blue) and is really really light as it's made of mostly plastic but the black one somehow has carbon fibre in it. It has areally nice design to it and very quick to put the blades in and remove. Not the best for mass sharpening, say about 8 club skates with a factory edge on them.
Barwick	Re: Recommended sharpening jig & stone	#3	[-]
Posts: 284 (04/18/06 5:07 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Thanks, that helps a lot. I was planning on purchasing the coarse stone, along with the medium and fine stones, but I think I might just go with the medium and fine for now, and get the coarse later. As for the Norton deburring stone, is that the 1 x 1 stone they sell at Dimon Sports? I've used those before, and seemed to work good. Also, I know people polish the bottom (or top, depending on how you look at it) of the blade (the part that glides on the ice). But would it be any benefit to polish the sides of the blades as well, so that as the edges go into the ice, a small part of the side of the blade is contacting the ice, and if it's polished, would it help at all? Even just polishing the first millimeter up the blade or something? Oh, and when sharpening with the DMT continuous diamond (that's what I'm looking at getting), do you put another stone on top (maybe 3 to 5 lbs?) to have some weight on it, so you don't have to push down? I found that pushing down on it myself, I put uneven pressure on the stone and might wear the blade unevenly.
Sue Ellis	Re: Recommended sharpening jig & stone	#4	[-]
Posts: 450 (04/18/06 10:57 PM) Administrator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts	Yes, it is the 1 x 1 stone. They also come in longer lengths which I just cut down to about 1 x 1. If you let the deburring stone get gunked up (ie:don't clean it with oil) it will eventually make a real nice polish on the side as well as taking the burr off very well. Yikes! You can add a little weight by putting another stone on top ( a Norton will do), but NEVER press on the stone as this will cause your rocker to change, or as you say, wear the blades unevenly. It's one of the biggest mistakes people make when sharpening and causes either a hollow just past the tips, or too much wear on the tips. You should just let the stone do the work and your fingers are placed lightly on the stone and just guide the stone up and down the skates. A friend destroyed a beautiful pair of Bont Platinum in les than 4 months by putting pressure on the stone. Ahhhggg! Also, always use full strokes, whether you are going diagonal or straight up and down.

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